Black Diamond, a name synonymous with climbing gear, has entered the competitive world of rock shoes with the Zone LV. These shoes, designed for performance climbing, particularly in the realm of bouldering and steep sport climbing, have generated considerable buzz, but also some controversy surrounding their fit. This in-depth review aims to dissect the Black Diamond Zone LV, exploring its performance capabilities, scrutinizing its notoriously aggressive sizing, and providing a comprehensive guide for potential buyers.
The Zone LV's design philosophy centers around a high-performance, precision fit geared towards experienced climbers. Unlike many all-around climbing shoes, the Zone LV doesn't shy away from a snug, even aggressively tight fit. Testers consistently reported needing to go a half, and sometimes even a full size up from their typical street shoe size. This is a significant deviation from other Black Diamond footwear and many other climbing shoe brands, making sizing a critical consideration before purchase. The aggressive sizing is not simply a matter of initial tightness; the Zone LV exhibits minimal stretch over time. This means that the snug fit, while potentially uncomfortable initially, is likely to remain consistent throughout the shoe's lifespan. This characteristic might be appealing to climbers who prefer a consistently precise feel on the rock, but it's crucial for prospective buyers to understand and account for this limited stretch.
The Contentious Fit: A Narrow Toebox and Loose Heel
One of the most frequently discussed aspects of the Zone LV's fit is its narrow toebox. Multiple testers across various foot shapes and sizes reported a constricted feeling in the forefoot. This narrowness, while providing precision and sensitivity on small holds, can quickly become uncomfortable for those with wider feet or those who prefer a more spacious feel in their climbing shoes. The lack of significant stretch exacerbates this issue, making it difficult to break in the shoe to a more comfortable width. Climbers with bunions or other foot deformities should be especially cautious, as the Zone LV's aggressive fit might not accommodate these conditions.
Conversely, many testers noted a relatively loose heel. This contrasting aspect of the fit presents a unique challenge. While a secure heel is paramount for performance climbing, ensuring a stable platform for powerful movements, the Zone LV's loose heel can compromise this stability, leading to heel slippage and a loss of confidence on demanding climbs. The combination of a narrow toebox and a loose heel creates a somewhat paradoxical fit, highlighting the importance of trying these shoes on before committing to a purchase.
Performance on the Rock: Precision and Power
Despite the divisive fit, the Black Diamond Zone LV delivers on performance when it comes to climbing. The narrow toebox, while potentially uncomfortable for some, contributes to a remarkable level of precision. Climbers reported exceptional sensitivity on small holds and edges, allowing for delicate footwork and precise placements. The stiff midsole provides ample support and power transfer, enabling efficient and powerful movements on steep and overhanging routes. This stiffness is a boon for powerful heel-toe camming and precise footwork on crimpy holds, making the Zone LV a strong contender for steep and technical climbing.
The rubber compound employed by Black Diamond in the Zone LV also deserves mention. While specific details of the rubber formulation aren't always publicly disclosed, testers generally reported excellent friction and stickiness on a variety of rock types. This grip, combined with the precise fit, allows for confident and secure foot placements, even on slick or challenging surfaces. The durability of the rubber is another factor to consider; while early reports are positive, long-term testing is needed to fully assess its wear resistance compared to other high-performance climbing shoe rubbers.
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